I can’t believe I’m doing this, but I’m listing my 2000 BMW M coupe for sale. I have always wanted one of these cars since they were first introduced, and a year ago, I was finally able to purchase one. With a recent home purchase, and now uncertainty at work, I’m liquidating several of my vehicles. This is by far the hardest vehicle to sell, and I already know that I will regret the sale of it for a very long time to come. I’ve had over 10 BMWs, have raced open wheel Formula cars, and have driven just about every street performance car out there. This car compared to almost everything else out there in it’s class, is one of the best handling, most reliable, best looking, rare, and just plain fun cars there is. With nearly 300hp, it’s pretty quick in a straight line, but once the road gets twisty, almost nothing can keep up.

*2000 BMW M Coupe
*Estoril Blue / Dark Beige Oregon (1 of 26 ever built like it)
*70k miles
*Turner Cam Kit with Schrick cams
*Conforti Intake
*24lb injectors
*M50 intake manifold
*Porsche 996 front calipers
*Newer e46 M3 front rotors
*Sparco suede race steering wheel
*Euro oil cooler
*Fluidine radiator
*H&R coilovers with adjustable rear springs
*Bilstein rear shocks
*Stainless brake lines
*Racing dynamics front strut tower brace
*Rear racing belt harness bar
*Tinted windows
*SSR GT3 staggered 19” wheels ($$)

This car is not a perfect example of an e36/8 M coupe. The car was built as a weekend toy. While at the track, the previous owner spun the car, and slid it into a tire barrier. The hood, passenger side fenders, and door have been replaced and repainted as a result. The paint is by no means perfect, I’m very picky, but it still looks fantastic from only a couple of feet away. The car has a clean title and it’s 100% clean on both carfax and autocheck.

I could write a novel about this car, so I’ll stop here. If you are SERIOUS about this car, give me a call and we can discuss it in great depth. No joyrides or test-drives.

Call if you are interested, please leave a message if I don’t answer.

Here’s your chance to own an ultra rare, extremely fun, super reliable, collectors car, that’s only going up in value, at a good price. Price is FIRM.

More pictures at: http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q66/M635dude/Mcoupe/ "

So that's basically the skinny. Here's a little more written information for the fellow BFC members, and to those who frequent Mcoupebuyersguide, more then their emails.

I love excellent paint on cars, so let me explain this in a little more depth then in the CL ad. As stated, the hood has been painted, and the right side has been painted with I'm 90% sure, new panels. It looks the only process during the repair that they cheeped out on was when they actually applied the paint. There is a run in the clear along the trailing edge of the hood, and the passengers side door looks faded in some lighting. I believe the car was sold in the dented up condition by the original owner, who did most of the modifications. The second owner fixed the car, to flip it, but it somehow received two dents on the rear c-pillars. The car was then brought up from the south (where it was it's whole life prior) by my friend who bought it. He is an avid BMW enthusiast, having owned several of my past cars, and still drives an e36 M3 that I sold him. He then didn't want to drive it through a NE winter, felt tight financially with the car, and sold it to me.

I drove the car a bit last fall, parked it for the winter, and have accumulated about 10k miles with driving it this past summer. I installed the wheels and the bbk.

The car runs out super strong for an s52, and doesn't burn a drop of oil. This is the first s52 I've had that doesn't burn any oil haha. I started to get a vibration in the rear end from 75-85 mph over the past month, only to find out that the new continentals I put on 3000 miles before, were shot on the inside from the camber, and probably toe. It's that or a bent rear wheel causing the vibration. When I bought the car, it looked like there was a hairline crack in the rear floor (not on a spot weld). I kept track of "the crack" over time, but it never grew, even a millimeter. I had the rear mufflers off 300 miles ago and checked it up close then. What I thought was a crack, doesn't actually appear to be a crack. I may be wrong, but in 10k miles of not the most delicate driving, I'm 99% positive that if it were a crack, it would've spread.

SSR's are included in the sale, as I don't know if the roadstars will clear the bbk now haha. I will try to find out soon. I will also try to get more pictures of the car posted.

Trades possibly considered, I'm into most everything.